Chan chan

Ellie had a fever last night and had another dose of Tylenol at 3am. Other than congestion she seemed okay. Christine continues to improve slowly. We took photos with our friends and said our goodbyes although being on the road we often run into each other again. 

These soccer goal poles gave the kids a lot of entertainment. They climbed them and threw dried mud flakes at them.

the Germans who arrived last night drove this vehicle.

We were headed to Chan Chan, the largest mud city in the world and the largest city in pre-Columbian South America. Wikipedia says it flourished from 900 - 1470 AD under the Chimor empire as their capital until it was defeated by the Incans and then later the Spaniards. Unfortunately the Spanish did not record much of the civilization other than plundering it's gold.

We arrived there a little after Nico and Pauline did due to stopping at a few gas stations to dump our toilet and the look for water for fill up but either there was no water or the pressure was too low to overcome our triple filtration system. 

We ran into them as they finished walking the grounds. We paid and entered and without any English signs we took photos to look up

information later but there is not much known. There were diagrams on the mud walls which I assume are recreated from samples. There were diagrams of either chickens or peacocks and fish in a canal or river or aqueduct but I read the fish symbolized the two different currents in the ocean here, the Humboldt and the El nino. The mud walls were impressively thick and tall. It was hot and dry and I imagine the climate was less hot and had more rain or water 700 years ago.

We headed off from there toward a Tottus to do some shopping for lunch and more fruits. Christine also added some medicines for her ailments. There was a food court in the hypermarket which was not uncommon but they required us to purchase the items before they would dispense them, so I stood in a ridiculously long line with only one functioning cash register to order my food which the register didn't understand and then went to the counter to order for me before coming back with the wrong food and then ordering the right one and the other cashier going to the other counter to order my food. There has got to be an easier way but they have not figured it out yet. 

We had sui mai and chicken nuggets and a drink. The kids are tired of the ample portions of limp fries that are provided with meals, or rather the not fresh fries. We went and picked out some electrolyte drinks and medicines for Christine and then went to buy sorbet at the mall food court.

We headed off in search of water and found one gas station that had enough pressure to fill our tank, albeit slowly. It was already 3pm when we headed off in search of camping. I chose a beach less than an hour away and when we got there it was nice but there was trash burning up wind and it smelled unpleasant so we headed off to beach number two 45 minutes away and the village was burned down and only two restaurants remained. It was fairly empty and I asked if it was quiet and then lady at the tienda said some men in a car would come by at night. Christine said she was tired of being in the RV and wished she was home so I looked up a hotel a few minutes away and went there. Unfortunately the entry gate for the secure parking was too low for us and the neighborhood did not look safe for street parking. The sun was setting and there was a safe gas station almost an hour away. We bought dinner to go at a restaurant for $8. It was not the friendliest looking place but Dd had my back. I was surprised he volunteered to come with me to check out the restaurant. There were two choices on the menu: Cuban rice (containing a fried egg and plantains) and fried chicken and rice with fries. We had one of each and an Inca soda and took it to go. They must have ran out of plasticware because they gave us a metal spoon in the bag we discovered later on. 

We hit the road into the setting sun and steeled our nerves for some evening driving which we try to avoid as much as possible. It is hard to see potholes and speed bumps and animals in the darkness.

Fortunately the road condition was perfect and smooth and we made it to the gas station an hour past sunset at 730pm and it was clean, dust free and welcoming. We were directed to a well lit parking spot for overnight and I bought some Inca soda and popsicles from the 24h market. The food from the restaurant hit the spot as did the soda. I dumped the gray water and fed the rest of the food to the dog wandering around. Nico and Pauline made it 90 minutes into the mountains from our spot and saw a crazy bridge that has been in disrepair for at least a year. They are headed into the mountains and we are too chicken to do so. The coast road to Lima beckons and we shall see if all of us fall ill for a few days before we head to Cuzco.